The Playlist

    Happening Now : Coffee’s Fourth Wave


    Baca dalam bahasa indonesia

    From the mass consumption of Robusta coffee of unknown origin, to specialty Arabica coffee from known origin, coffees’ 4th wave is washing over us. The very people that produce coffee are now drinking ‘origin’.

    The locus of coffee experimentation is shifting away from coffee consuming countries into coffee growing countries. Local knowledge, regional connections and increased disposable income are changing the global coffee market in ways that are just beginning to be appreciated. By farming, processing, roasting and brewing coffee with an intimate understanding of their products origin, people in coffee growing countries are opening new flavours for the world to explore.

    Throughout Central America, South East Asia and Africa radical developments in coffee processing are leading this prominent “global south” trend. Micro- lot processing, specialty coffee roasting, single origin cafes, experimental product design and a growing middle class are all pointers to change.

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    Coffee Conversation With Dr. Jeffrey Neilson


    If you think Indonesia’s booming specialty coffee sector means a better deal for farmers, ask first whether ‘Indonesian coffee farmers’ even exist

    For the coffee cognoscenti, it’s well-known Indonesia is the world’s fourth largest coffee producing nation. They may be less familiar however with the fact Indonesia is the world’s fastest-growing coffee retail marvket, and the fifth largest by retail volume. Between 2012 and 2016, coffee franchise outlets and specialty coffee shops doubled, to 1,083 and 1,025 respectively, according to market researcher Euromonitor International. Starbucks now has 240 outlets across the country, Indonesia’s Maxx Coffee has 70 since opening in 2015, and Excelso has 65. With the number of independent coffee shops and roasters that have popped up in urban areas in the past year alone, the archipelago’s current total must surely now be nudging 1,500.

    “There has been massive change in the Indonesian domestic market over the past ten years,” says Dr Jeff Neilson, a geographer at the University of Sydney who has lived, studied, worked and researched In Indonesia over the past 25 years, and researched and published about the nation’s coffee industry since 2001. “Ten years ago, all good quality Arabica was exported. You’d go toany of these [coffee growing] regions and there’djust be fairly consolidated export firms often linkedto international traders, and they were responsible for quality control systems. All the good quality coffeewas being fed into the international specialty sector,”Jeff explains.

    Despite the unquenchable thirst for specialty coffee and café culture in Indonesia’s urban areas, domestic demand for instant coffee mixes still reigns. Euromonitor reported off-trade sales (transactions with supermarkets and smaller food retailers) grew at a slightly faster rate than on-trade sales (transactions with cafés, bars, hotels and restaurants) last year.

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    The Hands Behind the Brew


    In Arts

    Nestled underneath stretches of pine trees lies a secret patch of small Arabica coffee farm, which is operated by an equally small number of farmers.

    The local villagers have been farming in this area for decades. Yet Arabica coffee is relatively new to this land, only less than a decade old.

    Atmosphere is very lush (1200 amsl).

    Nourished by mountain spring water and fertile soil, exotic plants, from cloves, vanilla orchids,

    to avocados, have flourished on the hills of this sleeping volcano. For over a century, this natural ecosystem has been a sanctuary for various animals, including wild luwak, by providing them with enough food to live for generations.

    But humans are her best friend and also her biggest enemies. Hikers and climbers are known to frequent this area, sometimes even hunting the wild. It is not a surprise that humans are by far the most immediate threat this land has.

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    Ngopi di Tempat yang Semestinya


    In Origin

    At Gembongsari, a coffee village in Banyuwangi, coffee is enjoyed right at the coffee farm. However, this statement wasn’t true just few years ago. Even with 1,750 hectare of coffee farm, farmers often preferred to sell green beans in much cheaper prices. A local community organization called HIDORA began educating farmers on the financial and cultural value of coffee so that farmers can gain better control over prices.

    Education includes workshops and discussions to reevaluate Gombengsari’s potentials in the coffee industry. Coffee tours to the plantations were organized, where farmers and local villagers could showcase their traditional brewing skills. In 2016, coffee and culture festival was held and received enormous national, regional, and international media attention.

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    Kopi Wanen dari Dusun Senja


    In Arts

    All poems are in Indonesian. Click to read summary in English.

    Keempat puisi ini adalah tentang Kopi Wanen, sebuah kopi lokal dari daerah Bali bagian barat. Nama Wanen berasal dari kata berani dalam bahasa Bali. Disebut wanen karena kopi ini mampu disajikan sendiri tanpa susu, krim, ataupun gula, tidak perlu kue, ataupun hidangan pendamping. Cukup kopi yang diseduh dengan suhu yang pas maka pelanggan mampu menikmati dan merasakan manfaatnya. Kopi Wanen merupakan salah satu kopi lokal dari Dusun Senja di Jembrana, dan diramu oleh Nanoq Da Kansas, pemilik kedai Rompyok Kopi. Kedai kopi ini berada di daerah perbatasan atau ujung barat Pulau Bali dan sering disinggahi oleh berbagai pelanggan mulai dari sopir truk hingga pejabat, bahkan pengelanan yang hendak menyebrang.

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    A Traditional Method For Making Coffee


    In Arts

    The hole in the road was so big and so deep that some said faeries, fay, fata, dryads, imps, leprechauns, goblins, hobgoblins, gremlins, sirens, enchanters, nymphs, pucks, elves, brownies, pixies, genies, peri, sprites, bogies, nisses, what’s in a name, a rose by any other would smell as sweet, these being but spirits of the air, thin air, watery water, the fulsome earth, the burning flame, the shrieking lightning, the furry, feathered, scaled and skinned creatures, large and small, the animalcules, microbes, the spaces between atoms, particles of indeterminate existence, form, name, busy enabling the forest in the hole’s most abundant thrivingness, that some had said these elemental spirits were refugees of the removal of the once-vast expanse

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    Sehari untuk Kopi Harian


    In Arts

    Read in English

    Untuk yang sudah mengenal kopi, tidak sedikit yang menjadikannya sebuah candu. Contohnya saya, tidak mungkin satu cangkir saja yang dihabiskan. Seperti yang dikisahkan dalam karya ini, minimal tiga cangkir, baru terpuaskan. Satu cangkir untuk menemani pagi, satu lagi di siang hari ketika berkarya, dan malam hari kala bercengkrama dalam hangatnya pertemanan.

    Kini banyak kawan-kawan yang membuka ruang untuk menikmati kopi, yang artinya saatnya berpetualang; menikmati masing-masing kedai kopi dengan atmosfer ruang yang beragam, agar wawasan meluas seperti angkasa. Semoga karya yang terinspirasi kopi ini, turut menginspirasimu untuk berpetualang memperluas wawasan. Atau paling tidak, menginspirasimu untuk mengenal kopi agar tumbuh rasa sayang pada kopi dan Indonesia. Karena katanya: tak kenal maka tak sayang . Selamat menikmati!

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    The Rwa Bhineda Of Bali Coffee Culture


    In Arts

    According to Sangtu (Sang Ketut of Bali Silent Retreat), Rwa Bhineda is akin to the dualism of Indian philosophy or to the Ta o of Chinese philosophy. Rwa Bhineda is the Balinese philosophy for the harmony of opposites.

    In this essay, two trending coffee scenes are presented as contrasting perspectives. As in true Rwa Bhinedafashion, neither scene is good or bad, and each one needs to coexist to bring balance and order. On one side of the duality spectrum is the modern and creatively inclined, Helmen Coffee in the capital city Denpasar. On the other side is the surprisingly refreshing beach anti-stereotype, Infinity Coffee in the seaside resort town of Sanur.

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    Good Coffee is Good for Orang Utan


    Baca dalam bahasa Indonesia

    Sumatra is an environmentally rich, geographically turbulent region. Quite recently, a mere hundred thousand years ago, the most powerful volcanic explosion the Earth has ever experienced created the world’s largest caldera, which became Lake Toba, the world’s deepest lake. Another, smaller explosion created a peak in the middle of the lake, which crumbled to form Samosir Island, the largest inland island in the world.About 50 km south lies the sub-district of South Tapanuli, hilly and densely forested, home to the endemic, critically endangered, Tapanuli orangutan. It is also home to the Mandheling and Ankola ethnic groups, part of the boisterous, extroverted Batak people. In the highlands, farmers grow Mandheling Ankola Sipirok coffee, known locally simply as Sipirok, sometimes using organic compost in plots intercropped with sugar palm, which gives Sipirok coffee its distinctive flavour.

    Sholi Pohan, a native of Sipirok and a coffee expert employed by Conservation International to design and lead training programs for coffee farmers, is intensely proud of the coffee produced in the region. He also believes it hasn’t yet achieved its full potential nor have its unique qualities been recognized by the high-end market. He says that farmers still don’t use optimal production techniques. From 2005 to 2012, following the tsunami he worked in Aceh in Takengon and the Gayo Highlands, where coffee is a major crop and large contributor to the economy.

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    A Traditional Method for Making Coffee Part 2


    In Arts

    Plummeting, the rider, a short, thin fellow, thick black hair waved up in front as if startled at what it saw, a kind of rotting jacket, something resembling trousers, formed one aerial arc varying in trajectory with that of a nearby motorcycle, from which he had parted company, the motorcycle being an ordinary motorcycle that was neither a ‘duck’ nor a ‘street racer’ nor a large-capacity machine from one of the so-called iconic, global brands favoured by celebrities, politicians, generals and others of the criminal classes but, rather, a machine of modest horsepower, its livery dominated by a faded, patchy black, with remains of decals that might once have indicated the make and model but had long since given way to the rigours of the climate and neglect, its left-turn indicator continuing to blink as it had for days, weeks, months, years, unnoticed, uncared for, a sign of pure decoration, a party light.

    Use, the name deployed by most who knew him although his identity card, lost when dinosaurs still walked the Earth, had something entirely different written upon it, a name of many words of many syllables, heavy, burdensome, weighing him down, which had been forgotten along with the card, and so it was with some surprise that as he entered his arc, his cigarette firmly clasped between his lips, lips that had never enjoyed the art of kissing, kissing being unsupported

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    A Moment in Time


    In Arts

    Fotografi telah memberikan saya kesempatan untuk merekam berbagai momen yang tersimpan dalam Waktu. Hidup di Bali memberikan skenario yang tidak habis-habisnya dan pengalaman yang bagi saya tidak terbandingkan…. read more

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    Ibu-Ibu Mengurai Waktu


    In Arts

    Summary in English below.

    Pada umumnya, perempuan mengemban tugas sebagai sorter. Setelah panen, biji kopi akan dikeringkan di bawah sinar matahari selama satu hingga dua hari, kemudian disortir dengan tangan menurut kualitas biji mereka. Pekerjaan yang cukup melelahkan ini tidak banyak diperhatikan orang. Namun tidak seperti petani atau pekerja harian, ibu-ibu ini menerima penghasilan tetap sebagai full time sorter, sehingga banyak perempuan yang meminati pekerjaan ini.

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    Pasca Gempa, Kelompok Perempuan Bangkit dengan Kopi


    In Origin

    Read in English

    Gempa adalah bencana. Namun bagi sekelompok kecil wanita di Lombok Utara, gempa adalah berkah yang terselubung.

    Berdasarkan data yang terhimpun dari Badan Nasional Penanggulangan Bencana (BNPB), gempa Lombok di bulan Agustus 2018 mengakibatkan kerusakan sebesarh 71.962 unit rumah, 671 fasilitas pendidikan, 52 unit fasilitas kesehatan, 128 unit fasilitas peribadatan dan sarana infrastruktur. Sedangkan data korban adalah 460 orang meninggal dunia, 7.733 korban luka-luka, dan 417.529 mengungsi. Perkiraan kerugian sementara yang dilakukan oleh BNPB akibat Gempa Lombok mencapai triliunan. Angka ini belum termasuk kerugian yang diakibatkan oleh penurunan kunjungan wisatawan lokal dan manca negara. Di tengah situasi kelam tersebut, warga yang masih selamat saling bahu membahu untuk bangkit, di antaranya adalah kelompok ibu-ibu yang berada di desa Medana, Lombok Utara. Sadar akan kerugian ekonomi pasca gempa, belasan ibu-ibu tersebut tidak tinggal diam. Kebiasaan mengolah dan menyeduh kopi untuk diri sendiri dan keluarga, membuat mereka bangkit dengan cara menjual kopi Robusta.

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    Imas Suryati: Dari Mimpi Lalu ke Kopi


    Nama Imas Suryati mungkin belum terlalu familiar di telinga penikmat kopi di Indonesia. Tapi di ranah industri kopi spesialti, namanya pelan terdengar merdu. Sebagai salah seorang perempuan yang mengabdi pada kopi di hulu, awalnya Imas hanya ingin memupuk mimpinya berkeliling dunia. Siapa sangka, perempuan asal Bandung ini menemukan mimpinya ketika berkarir di dunia kopi, tepatnya di sebuah desa yang sederhana di Garut, Jawa Barat.

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    A Traditional Method for Making Coffee


    In Arts

    Nah, so, everyone following so far? this little story, where we met our four friends, the fata, fey, peri, some of the names of these elemental spirits of the earth, water, fire, air, in the forest in the bottom of the hole in the road, that splendid emptiness bursting with denizens great and small, populating prolifically, the ghost who’s asking so persistently, increasingly plaintively, for a coffee and a smoke, and we think we’ve learned the traditional way to make that coffee, that’s not been given, not yet, as the spirits fizz and flash, puff and splash into facsimiles of Homo sapiens, it’s hard work, we can see, this change from electrons whirring this way into that way, rearranging through revolutionary evolutionary magic, I can’t think of a better word, and let me apologize for this, for it all, my inept telling of this very old tale, shuffled about through legerdemain, mirrored words too long in telling, flashes of light and smoke, tricks with water and tossings of dirt, a pack of cards flung into the oxygen mingling with gorgeous gasses cuddling, curling, cooling all these fevered appearances, happenings, hollerings, I’m only human, and now I’m sure you’re wondering how this tale you know so well from your grandmother or grandfather recounting it beside your bed…

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    Petik Merah Saja: Kisah Gelang Merah dari Pangalengan


    In Origin

    Read in English

    Setelah gempa Pangalengan 2009, para relawan pencinta lingkungan Bandung bahu membahu bersama warga (yang juga petani kopi) menolong mereka yang terluka.

    Memasuki periode “trauma healing”, ternyata kebutuhan utama warga adalah bagaimana kembali hidup normal dengan penghasilan normal. Kebetulan saat itu kopi memasuki masa panen, artinya kegiatan memanen kopi sangat membantu proses “trauma healing” dan perlahan warga bergairah kembali. Harapan hidup kembali datang; ternyata pohon-pohon kopi tidak rusak dan tetap panen.

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    Gayo adalah Putri


    In Origin

    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia

    Years before the Dutch came to the archipelago, it is assumed that Gayo, the idyllic village surrounded by a mountain range, was dense with coffee trees. Maybe the Arabs brought coffee seeds with them when they migrated to Aceh to compensate their needs for caffeine. Or the Indians, who had already been growing coffee in their own country, created small patches of coffee farms. Trading cities were the site for exchanging cultures, commodities, and information, and North Sumatra was the Mecca that connected the East and West since the 2nd BC. 

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    Wanita-Wanita Penggerak dari Kaki Gunung Semeru


    In Origin

    Read in English

    Bicara tentang petani kopi berarti berbicara tentang petani secara keseluruhan. Sesuai dengan apa yang Jeffrey Neilson katakan di edisi awal kami: tidak ada istilah petani kopi. Karena kopi hanyalah satu dari beberapa komoditas yang ditanam untuk menunjang kehidupan petani sepanjang tahun. Maka itu ketika membicarakan tentang petani kopi perempuan pun, kita mesti melihat dari kacamata yang lebih luas, melewati peranan penyortir kopi yang identik dengan perempuan dan memasuki ranah domestik dan peranan sosial mereka.

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    Ade Putri Paramadita: Menemukan Cerita dalam Kopi


    Read in English

    Bermuara pada bagaimana bercerita adalah cara untuk memberikan edukasi pada masyarakat, Ade Putri Paramadita memberikan suatu hal yang berbeda dalam mengulas makanan dan minuman. Di saat banyak orang berlomba-lomba menjadi food blogger, wanita yang juga adalah founder Beergembira.com ini enggan disebut blogger. Karena apa yang ia tulis bukan hanya ulasan makanan, melainkan beraneka ragam cerita tak terlihat di balik cita rasa yang ia cicipi. Kami menemui Kak Ade Putri untuk berbincang mengenai coffee storytelling, trend, dan saran-sarannya untuk anak muda yang sedang berbisnis kopi.

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    Post-Earthquake, Women’s Group Rise Together with Coffee


    In Origin
    PUTU JULI SASTRAWAN Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia Earthquake is a natural disaster. But to a small group of women in North Lombok, earthquake is a blessing in disguise. According to National Disaster Management Agency (BNPB), Lombok’s August 2018 earthquakes caused damage to 71.962 housing units, 671 educational facilities, 52 health facilities, 128 facilities and infrastructure facilities. Over 460 people died, 7.733 victims were injured, and 417.529 people were displaced. Estimates of collateral losses carried out by BNPB reached trillions. This figure did not include losses due to significant decrease in tourism. In the midst of this calamity, survivors worked hand in hand to rebuild their lives, including a group of women in Medana, a village in North Lombok. Being aware of the economic losses, dozens of women did not remain silent. Armed with day-to-day experience manually processing and brewing coffee for the family, they chose Robusta as their product to sell. Through this earthquake, we have become closer. The whole village experience stronger bond. We don’t only take this as a disaster, but we also try to see it from a positive perspective After the earthquake, they gathered at the KLU Regional Government Field, Teluk Dalam Kren Hamlet, Medana Village, Tanjung District, North Lombok at 9 am. They processed the coffee here because their houses were severely damaged. From 9 am until afternoon, they gathered, sorted coffee, roasted, and bagged it. While roasting and preparing coffee they also shared stories, and empowering and encouraging each of the members that came [...] 0
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    Ade Putri Paramadita: Discovering Stories in Coffee


    AULIA MEIDISKA Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia When we learn about the invisible stories in foods and drinks, we will enjoy them even more. – Adi Putri   Coming from how storytelling is a way to educate the community, Ade Putri Paramadita shares a new perspective in reviewing foods and drinks. At a time when people are rushing to become food bloggers, Ade Putri Paramadita, founder of Beergembira.com, in fact refuses to be called one. Because what she’s writing is more than food reviews, but also about the immensely rich stories behind every flavors. We met Mbak Ade Putri to discuss coffee storytelling, trends, and her suggestions for young people who are starting coffee business. How do you write stories about food or drink? Reviewing food is easier because there are many things to explore. But this is not the case with drinks! Drinks have fewer ingredients to explore in a longer form of writing. So I have to find my own way to keep the story interesting. Usually, I’ll begin with the character of the drinks. For instance, coffee. I will describe the flavors of the coffee with the simplest words, then explaining the meals that’d be perfectly paired with it. This way, readers who aren’t coffee drinkers will be enticed to learn more. Read this article (in Indonesian) on coffee beer by Beergembira. When we tell a story about food or drink, we should look for taste profiles that readers might be interested in. Tell me about your experience [...] 0
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    Choose Red: Story of a Red Bracelet from Pangalengan


    In Origin
    Text: EKO PURNOMOWIDI Illustration: HANDOKO HENDROYONO Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia After the 2009 Pangalengan earthquake, environmentalists and volunteers from Bandung worked hand in hand with local citizens, who were coffee farmers, helping those who were injured. Entering the "trauma healing" period, it turned out that the urgency for local citizens was to retain their normal life with normal income. Coincidentally, coffee was entering the harvest period, which means that coffee will help farmers coping with their trauma. Farmers were excited about this. They began to see hopes when they discovered that the coffee fruits and beans weren’t destroyed by the earthquakes. After short visits in villages around Pangalengan, Kertasari, Cidaun, Ponselingan and Panawuan, we found that most coffee farmers in Sunda thought coffee was like a banana. They assumed that if the green ones were picked, they will ripe in a few days. Among them were Pa Jajang and Pa Rukman. I slowly argued, Coffee is a fruit, but not like a banana. Coffee only ripes on the tree, when the color turns red. This explanation was not enough. Farmers need to learn it hands on. Mere verbal information won’t give them enough understanding. So we went to the coffee garden, and started harvesting. While harvesting we shared some knowledge: 1. Coffee fruit is different than a banana. 2. If greens are picked, it's possible that the lower stem of the fruit is wounded. The wound must be healed first before flowering again; meaning that next year there might not [...] 0
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    Female Movers from the Foothill of Mount Semeru


    In Origin
    KRISTINA PAKPAHAN Staff Riset Bina Desa Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia When we talk about coffee farmers, we talk about farmers in general. This is in line with what Jeffrey Neilson said in our early edition, “There is no such thing as coffee farmers.”This is because coffee is only one of several commodities to support the farmers’ livelihood throughout the year. Therefore, when we talk about female coffee farmers, we must observe it from a wider perspective, beyond the role of coffee sorter which is identic as a woman’s role, to their domestic and social role. In a village on the foothill of Semeru Mountain, a local movement called Sidomakmur, which was initiated by female farmers, gets stronger. Located in the Pasru Jambe Village, Sidomakmur becomes a space for learning and knowledge-sharing for women and men. Started with the spirit to fight poverty, Sidomakmur grows into an organization that is critical towards government’s program, including feminism issues. Female farmers in Indonesia are indeed still bound to their domestic duties and has no ownership rights over the land nor the production equipment. For example, land registration is often conducted under the name of men, and most of the times, land inheritance is passed down to male heirs. In the households, when there are challenges in providing food, the first to blame is the women. Then, when children and husbands seemingly neglected, the blame is always on the mothers. Women, whether they like it or not, would be the last to sleep, but [...] 0
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    Gayo adalah Putri


    In Origin
    MICHELLE ANINDYA Read in English Kabarnya, jauh sebelum Belanda datang ke Nusantara, Gayo padat dengan pohon kopi. Mungkin orang Arab membawa biji kopi bersama mereka untuk memenuhi kebutuhan kafeinnya ketika bermigrasi ke Aceh. Atau mungkin orang India, yang sudah menanam kopi, membuka lahan kopi kecil-kecilan. Sebagai kota pelabuhan semenjak 2 SM, Aceh menjadi tempat pertukaran budaya, komoditas, dan informasi antara belahan dunia Timur dan Barat. Belum ada bukti yang kuat perihal sejarah kopi di Aceh. Namun bagi sebagian besar masyarakat Gayo, mereka menganggap biji kopi bagaikan seorang Putri. Rakyat Gayo telah menanam biji kopi selama hampir 400 tahun dan kopi adalah komoditas berharga yang menopang kehidupan mereka. Namun tidak seperti banyak petani lainnya yang memiliki berbagai variasi komoditas untuk dijual sepanjang tahun, Gayo hanya memiliki kopi. Sebagian besar rakyat Gayo adalah petani, pengolah, dan penjual kopi. Jika penjualan dan nilai kopi menurun, maka kehidupan mereka pun akan terpengaruhi. Kopi adalah benteng kehidupan mereka sehingga mereka menyebutnya Siti Kewe (Siti adalah nama umum untuk perempuan dan Kewe, berasal dari kata kahwa, yang berarti kopi). Bagi mereka, kopi adalah Putri, anak yang berharga yang memberi mereka masa depan, kemakmuran, dan umur panjang. Win Hasnawi, seorang petani Gayo, roaster, dan brewer yang telah aktif mempromosikan biji Gayo di Jakarta sejak tahun 2006, menjelaskan, Yang bisa memproduksi anak adalah ibu. Yang bisa memberikan harapan adalah ibu yg punya anak banyak. Dan harapan kita untuk kopi adalah seperti perempuan yang menghasilkan buah yang banyak, yang akan meningkatkan perekonomian orang Gayo. Karena itulah ia diperumpamakan seperti [...] 0
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    Sedang Berlangsung – Gelombang Kopi Keempat


    Photo: Ricky Vernandes Setiady Read in English RODNEY GLICK Definisi: ‘Gelombang Keempat’ adalah ‘Gelombang Ketiga’ yang terjadi di negara penanam kopi. Dari konsumsi masif kopi Robusta yang tidak diketahui asalnya, sampai kopi spesial Arabika yang diketahui dari tempat tertentu, Gelombang Kopi Keempat tengah melanda kita semua. Para penanam kopi kini menikmati “origin”. Selain negara-negara pengonsumsi, negara penanam kopi kini mulai bereksperimen dengan kopi. Pengetahuan lokal, jaringan regional dan peningkatan daya beli telah mengubah pasar kopi dunia dengan cara-cara baru yang belum pernah ada sebelumnya. Melalui proses penanaman, pengolahan, penyangraian, dan penyeduhan kopi yang dibekali pemahaman yang mendalam akan asal-usulnya, negara-negara penanam kopi mendapatkan peluang untuk mengenalkan rasa-rasa yang baru ke pasar dunia. Cara mengolah kopi yang berkembang pesat di seantero Amerika Tengah, Asia Tenggara dan Afrika, menjadi penggerak trend di negara-negara berkembang lainnya (“Global South”). Bertumbuhnya pengolahan skala kecil, penyangraian specialty coffee, kafe-kafe dengan kopi single origin, desain produk yang berani, dan juga pertumbuhan kelas menengah menandai perubahan ini. Menurut definisi Gelombang Kopi oleh Trish Rothgeb, kita tengah berada di Gelombang Ketiga, yaitu ketika sumber biji kopi dikenali bukan dari negara mana, tetapi dari perkebunan mana; ketika tujuan penyangraian bukan untuk menutupi, tetapi untuk mengeluarkan karakter unik tiap jenis kopi; dan ketika rasa menjadi bersih, khas, dan murni. Bila Gelombang Kopi Ketiga terjadi di negara-negara pengonsumsi kopi, Gelombang Kopi Keempat merupakan ciri khas ‘Gelombang Ketiga’ yang tengah terjadi di negara penanam kopi, sekarang ini. Dalam kata lain, Gelombang Kopi Keempat berpusat di negara-negara penanam kopi. Photo: Ricky Vernandes Setiady Pengamatan [...] 0
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    Coffee Conversation with Stanley Chien


    Read in English

    Tak lama lagi, kita akan mengenal Robusta yang tidak lagi pahit dan gelap selayaknya breakfast coffee pada umumnya. Perubahan iklim yang amat berdampak pada wilayah penanaman kopi kini membuat para ahli kopi beralih ke Fine Robusta yang tahan banting untuk memenuhi konsumsi specialty dunia. Kami berbincang dengan Stanley Chien, Juara Barista Taiwan selama bertahun-tahun, tentang Fine Robusta, dari pertanian hingga penyeduhan.

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    A Traditional Way to Make Coffee


    In Arts

    Ada sebuah lubang yang sangat dalam di pinggir jalan. Di dalam lubang tersebut, hutan belantara tumbuh, dipenuhi berbagai macam tumbuhan dan binatang. Dan juga hantu manusia-manusia yang tak sengaja jatuh ke dalam lubang tersebut bersama motornya, mobilnya, dan truknya, lalu meninggal di sana. Ada juga segunung sampah: tas plastik dan sayur mayur yang membusuk, popok dan tissue toilet, dan banyak lainnya.

    Sampah-sampah itu dibuang ke dalam lubang tersebut oleh orang-orang sekitar. Empat roh di hutan tersebut – Bumi, Api (direpresentasikan oleh Petir), Air, dan Udara – mengambil wujud manusia. Manusia terakhir yang tinggal di sana, Pak Use, juga menampakkan diri sebagai hantu. Pak Use berkata kepada roh-roh di sana bahwa pertunjukan mereka sebagai manusia tidak begitu meyakinkan. Jadi mulailah Episode 4 dari Cara Tradisional Membuat Kopi…

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    Rasa Itu


    In Arts

    “Kenapa Pak, kok ketawa?”
    “Hahaha… Kamu suka gula ya, Dik?” tanya Pak Gede sesaat setelah aku mencemplungkan sesendok gula ke dalam kopi.
    “Nggak sih. Aku kira Bapak ketawa karena aku memasukan gulanya kurang banyak.”
    “Bukan masalah memasukan gulanya.”

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    Masa Depan Robusta Kita


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    Di industri kopi kita, robusta ibarat selebriti yang kehilangan masa jaya. Kemudian ditemukan lagi oleh manajemen baru, yang bekerja keras menyulap si pesohor masa lalu menjadi nyala bagi panggung hiburan.

    Keberadaan robusta mungkin berbeda nilainya saat kita mendengar cerita-cerita usang kakek dan nenek kita di dapur. Ada secangkir kopi panas harum mengepul yang dituang di cangkir enamel. Secangkir robusta yang mengandung nikmat tanpa ukuran, formula, apalagi rumus-rumus pengukur kenikmatan.

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    Es Kopi Susu: Memodernisasikan Robusta


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    Kalau pernah menonton serial TV Si Doel Anak Sekolahan, pasti kita bisa menyaksikan kebiasaan ngopi bersama kerabat dan tetangga di pagi dan sore hari. Kebiasaan ngopi di Indonesia memang tidak hanya terjadi beberapa tahun belakangan. Kopinya sendiri boleh jadi Robusta yang gosong dan pekat atau kopi instan, tak masalah.

    Namun dengan datangnya coffee’s third wave yang mementingkan origin dan flavor profiles, kebiasaan ngopi pun berubah. Kita pun mulai melirik berbagai macam brand lokal yang mengusung kopi Indonesia, baik Arabika dan Robusta, yang disajikan dengan berbagai macam cara. Es kopi susu adalah salah satunya. Dengan harganya yang amat murah dan rasa yang bermacam-macam, tak heran sekarang es kopi susu menjadi incaran kafein banyak orang.

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    Mohammad Fakhri: Menjuarai Kompetisi dengan Tangan Kiri


    Mohammad Fakhri, lelaki tangguh yang terlahir dengan satu tangan ini sudah mencecap manis dan harumnya kopi sedari SD. Bukannya diawali karena kesukaannya akan kopi , melainkan sang ibunda membuat dirinya meminum kopi di usia yang cukup muda. Sarjana Strata Satu Psikologi ini menuturkan bahwa menurut sang ibunda, dirinya memiliki kebiasaan tidur yang terlalu lama. Maka beliau pun ‘mencekoki’ Fakhri dengan kopi kegemarannya, yakni kopi sachet – Indocafe Coffee Mix, dan itu menjadi kopi pertama dalam kehidupan Mohammad Fakhri.

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    Masa Depan Robusta Kita


    In the coffee industry, Robusta is like a celebrity who loses her popularity. But, it’s now rediscovered and brought under the wings of coffee experts, who are reinventing new ways for the beans to take over the center stage in our life again…. read more

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    Roasting Coffee with Ibrik


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia Like a virus, coffee culture is spreading so fast it’s now the epicenter of both urban and rural lifestyles. Indonesia has known coffee since the days of our ancestors. But in today’s coffee world, it is no longer the plain black drink that we grew up with. It has transformed into a cultural symbol that is well-received by people from across different lifestyles, even with its increasing price due to a more careful treatment from crop to cup. Brebes, a district located in Central Java, is no different. As the second largest area in Central Java, shallots are the main commodity for a long time, but coffee farms are slowly expanding. With the growing number of coffee practitioners at all levels of production, more and more coffee thoughts can be synthesized to further the coffee industry in Brebes. In fact, in the story below, home-roasting community is the driving force to this growing industry. One of the pioneers in Brebes’s distinct coffee culture is Kelirumologi, established at the end of 2015. A modest building situated next to a gas station on Jalan Pemuda, this shop is owned by a young man with an adventurous soul. Kelirumologi is an idea initiated by Ki Jaya Suprana, which roughly means a misunderstanding that is ironically adapted into the society and considered true. So why does Cecep choose this name for his shop? I find a lot of kelirumonologi in the coffee world, especially among Indonesians—the taste, how to brew, […]

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    (1) Are you a home roaster?


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia A title without a name What’s home roasting? Rarely do we hear this title yet this activity has permeated and impacted so much of our coffee cultures. In one sense, home roasting is very much like home brewing. It’s a hobby done at your convenience, using an easy-to-set-up home machine or manual tools, usually to satisfy personal curiosity and sense of adventure. Without the pressure of having to sell the roasted beans, the home roaster has freedom to explore their own interests in various origin beans. But home roasting isn’t a recent phenomenon; an impact of the third wave culture. Home roasting isn’t just available to those already familiar with the coffee world; who understand origin, processing, tasting notes, and is a good brewer. In reality, coffee cultures have long begun before the first wave and home roasting is very much an integral part in developing the vibrant local coffee cultures, as both a community activity and a small business venture. In this edition, we will meet home roasters in Indonesia who pursue home roasting for various goals. We’ll see how this activity evolves over centuries, beginning in the colonial era where home roasters will mix coffee with corn or starch, to the post third wave era where home roasting becomes a mean to understand origins. We’ll meet home roasters-turn-small business owner-turn-activist, traditional home roasters, and those who simply love home roasting for the distinctive freshness of the final goods. … to be continued

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    Ibrik pun Bisa untuk Menyangrai


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    Brebes, sebuah kabupaten yang terletak di Jawa Tengah pun tak luput dari pergerakan kopi ini. Memiliki wilayah terluas kedua se-Jawa Tengah, bawang merah adalah komoditas utamanya, namun kebun kopi juga pelan-pelan bertambah luas. Dengan semakin banyaknya penggiat kopi dari hulu ke hilir yang bersinergi, semakin banyak pula pemikiran yang dapat diselaraskan demi mengembangkan industri kopi kota Brebes. Malah, dalam kisah di bawah ini, perkembangan home roastery-lah yang berperan sebagai motor penggeraknya

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    (2) Are you a home roaster?


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia If we take into account the manual, day-to-day caffeine consumption in the rural areas of Indonesia, then home-roasting has happened centuries we even have a term for it. Ever since the Dutch introduced cuulturstelsel for coffee in the 17th century Java, Indonesian farmers have roasted their coffee at their own home using ordinary utensils—a wok, spatula, terracotta pan, wood fire. It’s mixed with corn, rice, green beans or other starch growing in their back yard to stretch the coffee and makes it less bitter. Typically poured as tubruk with a spoonful of sugar, the coffee is consumed by the family or by the neighbors and guests. Coffee drinking is a morning routine and to some people, ceremonial. During the industrial revolution when the roasting machine was invented, those who had some capital, initiated bigger production of roasted beans. Some of them are home business owners who roast and sell the roasted beans to neighbors and others would open a coffee house of their own. Roasting, despite being done at home and a smaller scale, became an occupation that actually generated income. This home-business activity shaped our taste for dark bitter coffee and is the base to a concoction of flavors that arise to define the local palette. But after the Third Wave, our understanding of coffee shifted. The term ‘origin’ and ‘roast profiles’ turned our world around on how we view coffee. In the US, home roasting happened as a consequence of the Third Wave. As soon […]

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    (2) Apakah kamu adalah seorang roaster rumahan?


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    Ape perbedaan seorang roaster rumahan di Indonesia dan di negara Barat? Menyangrai di rumah sudah lama dikenali oleh masyarakat Indonesia. Namun, Gelombang Ketiga kopi mengubah itu semua. Begitu peminum mengerti bahwa kopi memiliki rasa yang berbeda tergantung pada originnya, misi untuk mengeluarkan dan memaksimalkan citarasa itu pun muncul. Ditambah lagi dengan internet dan belanja online, membeli green beans dalam jumlah kecil dari Afrika atau Brasil, bukan tidak mungkin lagi.

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    Home Roasting with a Pan


    In Arts

    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia For a long time, Indonesian families have roasted their own beans. They get their beans either from their own garden or neighbors, then roast them just enough for the family or neighbors to consume (day to day activities are often done communally. Food and drinks are shared among those that take part in these activities, including coffee). Without any eclectic measurements, they have mastered the way to home-roast coffee by relying on their senses. Coupled this with the fact that fresh coffee only last roughly a week, serving neighbors your own home-roasted and home-brewed coffee means you’re giving them generous attention. By Ben @komikkopi  

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    Cara Nyangrai Santai


    In Arts

    Read in English

    Memang sudah semenjak dulu keluarga-keluarga di Indonesia menyangrai kopinya sendiri. Bukan hal yang aneh. Mereka mendapatkan biji kopi dari kebun sendiri atau kerabat, kemudian menyangrainya secukupnya. Tanpa alat pengukur yang macam-macam, bapak atau ibu ini sudah sangat terbiasa untuk mengandalkan indera mereka untuk menghasilkan kopi yang mewah di lidah. Ditambah lagi dengan fakta bahwa kopi yang fresh hanya bisa tahan satu minggu, menjamu tamu dengan kopi hasil sangrai sendiri sebetulnya adalah jamuan yang istimewa.

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    Roaster Rumahan: Yosua Adetya


    Home brewers mungkin sudah banyak, namun tidak dengan home roasters. Untuk mendapatkan roasted beans yang menjajikan, seringkali kita melempar tugas itu kepada para roaster saja. Padahal, seperti menyeduh, menyangrai juga adalah keahlian yang bisa dipelajari. Dan hobi yang bisa jadi menyenangkan. Di seri ini, yuk berkenalan dengan beberapa roaster rumahan dan ngobrol tentang jenis mesin, green beans, metode sangrai, dll!

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    Home Roaster: Ego Prayogo


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia Home roasting. Often times, this term comes to activists and maybe even you. The activity has become so ingrained in the Indonesian cultures long before the emergence of various coffee waves and countless modern roasting machines. If we take few steps back to the farm and villages, roasting beans at home is actually the de facto method because it’s the only accessible way for farmers to roast coffee for themselves or for sale. The result? Good for sure. Whether it fits your palette is a different matter. One thing that’s certain is that even though it may look as simple as frying crackers and using no sophisticated or computerized variables, home roasting is a long enduring activity. This proves that there is a market segment for home-roasted coffee. Beginning in the village, this activity gradually appears in the cities. The home roasting trend is slowly emerging because competition among coffee shops is at an all-time high. The home roasters, coming from widely diverse backgrounds and for different motives, are in the scene to make a statement. Ego Prayogo is one of the home roasters in the Indonesian coffee industry, though now also owns a small-scale roastery. Roasted coffee is used as a daily supply at his shop, Guyon Coffee Shop. While enjoying a cup of orange coffee ice milk and rissole made by his mother, Ego tells me that home roasting is an activity that began because he wanted to experiment. Starting from his journey traveling […]

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    Home Roasting: Goreng Saja Biar Ramai!


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    Kalo dulu, orang roasting di rumah susah nyari kontak petani atau makelar biji kan. Kalau sekarang, petani aja punya sosmed. Mau macem apa aja ya ada tinggal pilih. Itu sih salah satu faktor yang membuatnya jadi trend.

    Sebagai pelaku bisnis dia juga tidak menutup mata pada sektor penjualan online sehingga produknya dapat dibeli melalui salah satu market place.

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    Melda Zhang: Mengharumkan Nama Indonesia di Vietnam


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    Jauh sebelum bendera spesialti kopi berkibar-kibar di banyak negeri, Melda Zhang dan rekan-rekannya adalah pecandu kopi yang gemar menikmati ragam kopi. Jatuh hati kepada kopi setelah mengunjung Takengon, Aceh Tengah, insting tajamnya mampu melihat peluang untuk membawa perempuan asal Sigli ini terbang jauh. “Awalnya, saya melihat bahwa kopi memiliki potensi bisnis yang besar. Apalagi Indonesia yang sudah pasti kaya akan biji kopi berkualitas. Di sana saya melihat peluang untuk menjual kopi. Meski, pada akhirnya kopi ini juga yang membawa saya ke Viet Nam dan memulai karir di sana.”

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    Melda Zhang: Bringing Indonesian Coffee to Vietnam


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia Coffee sends an Indonesian woman on an adventure. Melda Zhang never thought that she will become a coffee roaster in a foreign country, introducing Indonesian beans to each guests at her coffee shop. Long before specialty coffee enters mainstream culture in many countries, Melda Zhang and her colleagues are coffee addicts who love to enjoy a variety of coffees. Falling in love with coffee after visiting Takengon, in Central Aceh, her sharp instinct sees opportunities ahead and brings this woman from Sigli to venture out of Indonesia. “Initially, I saw that coffee can make a great business potential. Especially Indonesia, which has such rich potentials for quality beans. I saw an opportunity to sell Indonesian beans. In the end, this coffee brought me to Vietnam to start my career there.” Two to three years ago, Melda Zhang and his colleague Nhi Hoang only want to make a coffee corner and a homestay in Da Nang, Viet Nam Tengah. The city is full of tourists and she takes this opportunity. Who would have thought that the coffee corner in this narrow alley will gain fame. Not only known at Da Nang, but the whole Viet Nam. She finally opens a large coffee shop right in front of the Han River. An area full of strategic tourists, under the name Cong Kopi, Melda spreads the love for Indonesian Coffee. “Our Gayo coffee is one of the best-selling coffee here. The Gayo I got has magical notes like floral, […]

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    Roaster Rumahan: Bayu Arya


    Home brewers mungkin sudah banyak, namun tidak dengan home roasters. Untuk mendapatkan roasted beans yang menjajikan, seringkali kita melempar tugas itu kepada para roaster saja. Padahal, seperti menyeduh, menyangrai juga adalah keahlian yang bisa dipelajari. Dan hobi yang bisa jadi menyenangkan. Di seri ini, yuk berkenalan dengan beberapa roaster rumahan dan ngobrol tentang jenis mesin, green beans, metode sangrai, dll!

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    Part 5: Cara Tradisional Membuat Kopi


    In Arts

    Audio dan transkrip ada di bawah ini. Ringkasan Part 1-4: Ada lubang yang sangat dalam di jalan. Di lubang itu, hutan telah tumbuh, penuh dengan semua jenis tanaman dan hewan. Juga ada hantu manusia yang telah pernah mengendarai sepeda motor, mobil dan truk ke dalam lubang dan mati di sana. Ada juga tumpukan sampah: kantong plastik dengan sayuran busuk, popok dan pembalut wanita, dan banyak lagi. Sampah telah dibuang ke lubang oleh manusia yang tinggal dekat. Empat roh hutan — Bumi, Api (diwakili sebagai Petir), Air dan Udara — berbentuk manusia. Seorang manusia yang terakhir mati di lubang, Pak Yus, juga muncul sebagai hantu. Pak Yus memberi tahu roh bahwa tampilan mereka sebagai manusia tidak terlalu meyakinkan dan bahwa mereka seharusnya belajar lebih baik. Ia menawarkan memperkenalkan mereka kepada beberapa manusia nyata. Roh-roh unsur setuju dan naik ke atas lubang. Pak Yus mengantar mereka ke kebun kopi campur yang sangat disukai roh-roh. Selanjutnya, ia janji akan memperkenalkan mereka kepada pemilik kebun. Dan Episode 5 dari Cara Tradisional Membuat Kopi dimulai … Baca Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 Oleh Rob Finlayson [SFX: deng deng deng] Dalang: Selamat datang, bapak bapak, ibu ibu, anak anak. Selamat datang di Bab 5 dari Cara Tradisional Membuat Kopi. [SFX: deng deng deng] D: Anda akan mendengar ada inovasi dalam pertunjukan: musik! [SFX: deng deng deng] D: Oke, ini cuman pralon besar dan pralon kecil. Plastik saja bukan kayu lama dengan noda enak. Produsernya adalah pelit banget. Kata saya kepadanya, pertunjukan ini akan […]

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    Jenis-Jenis Processing


    Satu origin, ribuan rasa. Setidaknya, itu lah dasar dari berbagai macam processing yang ramai digarap dan dibicarakan untuk memberikan citarasa yang berbeda kepada beans yang sama. Processing sendiri adalah istilah untuk membedakan aktivitas fermentasi dalam kopi, yang di mana diketahui fermentasi inilah yang memberikan rasa kompleks pada kopi.

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    Kopi Tradisional : Kokoh Berdiri Meski Digempur Kopi Modern


    Baca dalam bahasa Indonesia

    Nengah is the current owner of a small traditional Robusta roastery in Klungkung, Bali. Started in 1970, this family-owned business was closed down in 1986 for a saddening (yet common) reason that no one had the time and fortune to manage it. It was in 2002, Nengah, one of the owner’s children who previously worked as a bus driver, took over the business.

    With his own ways of managing and roasting, Nengah takes care and rebuilds this small roastery. He roasts only 10 kg a day, an amount enough to sell to his neighbors and to pay the bills. Even in his modesty, he is popular among the local communities as Nengah Gianyar, the only traditional coffee roaster from a district that doesn’t even grow coffee.

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    Juria, oh Kopi Juria!


    In Origin

    Bagi masyarakat Colol, Flores, kopi adalah kehidupan. Tak pernah sekalipun hidup terlepas dari yang namanya kopi. Sebelum memulai hari dan bermimpi pun, orang-orang Colol, Flores, ditemani kopi. Sejak jaman nenek moyang masyarakat Colol Flores begitu akrab dengan kopi dan sejak kecil pun anak-anak di sana sudah dikenalkan dengan kopi sehingga tubuhnya begitu terbiasa dengan kopi bahkan hingga mereka dewasa tidak pernah gagap akan rasa kopinya.

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    Oi Bura’s Applause and the Spinning Roasting Machine


    In Origin

    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia #Fiction Like a roaring sound, the coffee beans move, pivoting on a roasted drum machine. The slight jingle of iron clashes with the engine components made the morning tumultuous. When the aroma of sweet corn begins to linger, and the sound of small pops is like a welcoming applaud, that is: first crack. The moment when the beans emit heat and gives off a pleasant aroma is an exciting experience that offers a promise. People from the far away land, who call themselves roasters, from continents that don’t really grow coffee, call this the ‘first crack’! That’s the first crack. I have no idea. This knotty language—it’s getting into me. ‘First crack’ sounds luxurious in the ear chamber, it’s beautiful, even though it leaves a question mark and a thousand more curiosities. But from a lifetime of learning, I know not to get too caught up in the question marks. It will be even more beautiful, if you let it reveal itself in real-life experiences. I look closely—this roasting machine. A small machine, spinning around, like a moon that faithfully orbits the earth. It’s consistently moving. It seems that I shouldn’t expect much from this machine. Unlike the roasters of specialty coffee with long, arduous narratives about the exploration of aroma and taste, with all those outlandish variables—I know I’m not there yet. Maybe close. Sounds pessimistic indeed! “Can you do it?” “After you spin, are you really capable of creating the magical coffee beans?” “Come […]

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    Tepuk Tangan Oi Bura dan Berputarnya Mesin Kopi


    In Origin

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    Seperti suara derap yang meriah, biji kopi bergerak, berporos pada putaran drum mesin panggang. Gemerincing sedikit benturan besi dari perselisihan antara komponen mesin menambah keriuhan pagi ini. Ketika aroma jagung manis menyesap, dan suara letupan kecil sudah seperti tepuk tengan penyambutan. Itulah: first crack.

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    Home Roasting Guide


    Kadang kita lupa bahwa dahulu, orang menyangrai kopi tidak dengan mesin, namun dengan peralatan dapur yang sederhana. Waktu yang dibutuhkan juga sebenarnya tidak lama. Malah, dengan menyangrai kopi sendiri, kita bisa mendapatkan citarasa kopi fresh yang maksimal. Ikuti langkah-langkah di bawah ini untuk cara sederhana menyangrai kopi:

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    Yuk! Cupping di Rumah


    Sudah mantap sangrai macam-macam kopi? Saatnya kita cupping! Cupping tidak hanya dapat dilakukan oleh lingkungan professional saja, namun juga di rumah untuk mengetahui kualitas biji dan kualitas sangrai kalian.

    Cupping di kalangan professional memang memiliki protokol yang cukup kompleks, namun tidak perlu merasa terintimidasi! Cupping bisa juga dilakukan dengan cara sederhana, di rumah, dengan cangkir yang ada, untuk kita menambah kosakata tentang rasa.

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    10 Rules on Cupping


    Slurp! Pertama kali mengikuti cupping session, bunyi menyeruput yang kadang memekakkan telinga ini selalu mengundang tawa. Ada alasan mengapa. Ada juga alasan mengapa coffee cupping memiliki protokol yang cukup ketat. Namun cupping juga bisa dilakukan dengan santai, mudah, dan fun! Yuk ikuti beberapa tips di bawah ini untuk kegiatan cupping santai di rumah.

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    Between Value Chain and Industry 4.0


    The coffee industry in Indonesia is developing so rapidly. Jokowi has declared coffee as one of the five priority commodities in Indonesia, along with all its supporting programs. Last year, for the first time ever domestic demand for premium coffee eclipses that for exports and this year, Indonesia is among the top four World Barista Championshs in Boston. But underneath the surge of this third and fourth coffee wave in Indonesia, what are the problems that are still often overlooked? Radiv Annaba, coffee academic who is studying the intricacies of the value chain, invites us to think critically about government programs that often lack in implementation. In his discussion with Indah Febryyani, he also explored the importance of finding ways to obtain comprehensive data that could be utilized by various coffee prof in the hulu. With Industry 4.0 coming into our daily lives, is digital technology a solution to balance out this value chain ? Let’s look at the two essays below by Radiv Annaba and Indah Febryyani on value chain, data, and Industry 4.0! — The Politics of Coffee: Jokowi’s Political Speeches on Coffee and How It Results Policy and Impact Towards Coffee Value Chain in Indonesia Radiv Annaba   This is my fourth year as a coffee individual in the industry. Why do I identify myself as a coffee individual? It is because I have been involved in different roles in the coffee business, starting as a barista and (hopefully) ended up as a coffee farmer, while I […]

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    Antara Value Chain dan Industri 4.0


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    Radiv Annaba, akademis kopi yang sedang mempelajari seluk-beluk value chain, mengajak kita untuk berpikir kritis mengenai program-program pemerintah yang seringkali kurang implementatif. Dalam diskusinya bersama Indah Febryyani, ia juga menelusuri pentingnya mencari cara untuk mendapatkan data yang komprehensif yang bisa dimanfaatkan oleh berbagai pelaku kopi, hulu-hilir. Dengan Industri 4.0 yang semakin menyusup ke keseharian kita, apakah teknologi digital adalah solusi untuk menyeimbangkan value chain ini?

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    Es Kopi Susu: Powered by Apps


    A coffee stall in Jakarta is packed with young people eager to get their hands on the es kopi susu drink with gula aren and avocado juice at the bottom. Next to them, a queue of online drivers in uniform and helmet almost outpour into the street, their hands busy checking their orders on the phone. The coffee stall itself is small, designed for to-go or delivery, and has very few seating. But the queue remains long throughout the day, alternating between passerby looking to quench their thirst, millennials aiming to get their hands on the latest es kopi susu brand, and online drivers picking up orders to be delivered across the city. A cold drink as simple as es kopi susu might never go out of fashion. Even in the middle of third wave specialty coffee that revolves around origin, es kopi susu is trending higher than ever. And es kopi susu will only evolve over time, adapting its flavors to fit the market’s tastes. Back then, es kopi susu came in a small coffee sachet; now, es kopi susu competes in the market by utilizing one of the most accessible technologies in the digital era—online delivery apps. A cold drink as simple as es kopi susu might never go out of fashion. Even in the middle of third wave specialty coffee that revolves around origin, es kopi susu is trending higher than ever. Ever since the widespread use of online delivery apps, it seems that there is a […]

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    No Delivery Apps, No Es Kopi Susu


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    Sebuah kios kopi di Denpasar dipenuhi anak-anak muda yang mengantri panjang, menunggu gilirannya mendapatkan es kopi susu dengan gula aren dan jus alpukat di dasarnya. Di sebelah mereka, ada sebuah antrian yang lebih panjang lagi, dipadati oleh supir-supir ojek berseragam yang terkadang masih mengenakan helmnya, tangannya sibuk memastikan orderannya lewat handpone.

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    Menceritakan Desa Pedawa Melalui Kopi


    In Origin

    Beragam latar belakang dan tujuan banyak orang menggunakan e-commerce. Mulai dari kemudahan dikenal oleh pasar di pulau seberang, transaksi jual-beli yang lebih ringkas, juga kesempatan bercerita tentang produk tersebut yang lebih banyak. Hal tersebut dibenarkan oleh seorang pengusaha desa Pedawa, Ketut Sudiarta, yang meneruskan usaha orang tuanya untuk memproduksi Kopi Moola Pedawa. Ketut Sudiarta pun menjelaskan bahwa memaksimalkan berbagai platform berjualan online sangatlah penting di zaman sekarang. Melalui e-commerce juga orang luar bisa mengenal dan tahu tentang kopi Pedawa itu sendiri.

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    Pulang: Melihat Kopi Malino Dari Kejauhan


    In Origin

    Beberapa kali berbincang dengan petani yang sudah berumur, salah satu celoteh yang sering terdengar adalah bagaimana melanjutkan usaha pertanian jika anak-anak mereka memilih merantau ke kota besar. Memang tantangan di kota terkadang terlalu menggoda untuk anak muda. Namun sekarang ini, ketika dampak specialty menuntut perhatian yang lebih jauh ke hulu, kopi sendiri lah yang seringkali membawa para perantau kembali pulang.

    Mungkin kalian sudah kenal dengan Yolan Tirta. Kopi Enrekangnya, hasil dari kebun kopi ibunya, adalah salah satu kopi asal Sulawesi yang selalu terpercaya kualitasnya.

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    Profil: Otten Coffee


    Membicarakan geliat industri kopi di Indonesia selama beberapa tahun terakhir tampaknya takkan pernah lepas dari satu nama e-commerce yang menspesifikasi dirinya terhadap bidang ini. Otten Coffee bergeliat sejak 2013 menjual beraneka biji kopi dan alat-alat kopi muncul bersama momentum paling tepat di saat kopi sedang hangat-hangatnya.

    Robin Boe dan Johni Kusno sebagai dua pendiri Otten Coffee melihat jeli kebutuhan pasar akan industri kopi yang bertumbuh ini. Alih-alih berdiam diri menjual biji kopi dan alat kopi secara off-line, pada 2014 keduanya memutuskan untuk menggeser Otten Coffee ke ranah yang lebih besar. Ranah e-commerce!

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    Apa Itu Kopi Super Robusta Gesing?


    In Origin

    Bagi perkebunan kopinya sendiri, titik pertumbuhan pesat bermula sejak label Super Robusta melekat pada kopi dari Desa Gesing. Super Robusta sendiri adalah istilah untuk biji kopi Robusta dari Puslit Koka (Pusat Penelitian Kopi dan Kakao) yang berkualitas di atas rata-rata. Berbeda dengan Fine Robusta yang berkaitan dengan tata cara perlakuan dalam perawatan kopi, Super Robusta adalah varietas yang memiliki perakaran yang lebih banyak, lebih tahan parasit, dan lebih berpotensi untuk menghasilkan produksi yang lebih banyak daripada robusta biasa.

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    Bringing Coffee to Wonosobo’s Detention Center


    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia In 2017, I met Pak Riyanto from Kerabat Ngopi for the first time and learned about his idea to bring coffee to a local detention center. At that time, I was just being a good listener. Pak Riyanto had a calm and pleasant demeanor, which stood in contrast to his bold, unconventional ideas. With humility Pak Riyanto said that he believes anyone has the right for a better future, even though they made mistakes considered fatal by public. The detainees were often misjudged and considered deprived of future, but Pak Riyanto wanted to invite us to relook at this perspective. Pak Riyanto said, “Good deeds will always attract other good things. This is the principle that we upheld in the program. Initially, we only intended to hold a simple coffee sharing event with the prisoners. But once we shared our ideas to the detention center, a lot of positive responses come in. Many communities ended up participating, which means we have a great support to run this program even bigger.” This was the mission of Kerabat Ngopi, a small coffee community from Yogyakarta that run ​​Ngopi di Rutan (Coffee in the Detention Center). Introducing the world of coffee and sharing brewing techniques to the detainees was not an easy idea to carry out. In addition to logistical issues and concepts that had to be organized, establishing common grounds with the detainees meant breaking down existing social perceptions. And that was not an easy thing. However, it […]

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    Belajar Nyeduh Kopi di Rumah Tahanan


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    Tahun 2017, saya bertemu dengan Pak Riyanto dari Kerabat Ngopi untuk pertama kalinya dan mendengar idenya tentang membawa kopi ke rutan (rumah tahanan). Kala itu saya hanyalah menjadi pendengar yang baik.

    Pembawaan Pak Riyanto tenang dan kalem, berbanding terbalik dengan idenya yang lantang. Tidak mencari popularitas, Pak Riyanto percaya betul bahwa siapapun berhak untuk masa depan yang lebih baik, meskipun mereka telah melakukan kesalahan yang dianggap fatal. Warga binaan rutan adalah salah satu golongan yang masa depannya “terampas”, namun Pak Riyanto ingin mengajak kita untuk memikirkan ulang pandangan ini. Pandangannya yang kuat inilah yang membuat pertemuan kami membekas di ingatan hingga saat ini.

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    Digital Currency: Bye, Bye Pengepul Kopi


    Blockchain sebetulnya tidak serumit yang kita kira.

    Bayangkan sebuah sistem dari producer (coffee farmer) hingga consumer (kamu) yang transparan. Di mini market terdekat, kamu dapat menemukan sebungkus specialty coffee origin, lengkap dengan kisah sang petani kopi. Kamu tidak hanya belajar tentang daerah asal sang petani, namun juga berapa jumlah keluarganya, cita-cita anaknya, apakah sang anak bersekolah, apakah mereka sehat, hingga penghasilan petani kopi tersebut.

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    Apakah design hanya tentang penampilan?


    Sedang gregetan ingin mendirikan sebuah coffee shop? Memang, dengan meningkatnya minat masyarakat untuk ngopi, specialty maupun bukan, banyak pelaku bisnis jadi ikut tergoda untuk membuka coffee shop sendiri. Namun, modern ini, orang tidak hanya datang ke coffee shop untuk menikmati secangkir kopi. Apalagi di kota besar, fungsi coffee shop beralih menjadi tempat bekerja, meeting, wawancara pegawai baru, sampai bengong yang berkualitas. Menciptakan kedai kopi yang cozy tidak lagi cukup. Faktor-faktor interior pun akan menentukan bagaimana pelanggan menggunakan space tersebut, seperti pencahayaannya, seberapa bising kedai, servis, musik, tata letak—the list goes on.

    Sebenernya apa sih formula design yang mendorong suksesnya sebuah kedai kopi? Dan apakah design hanyalah masalah penampilan?

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    Sebuah Doa di Ladang Kopi


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    Apa hubungan bertani dan spiritualitas? Bagi masyarakat Bali, hubungan ini sangatlah erat dan nyata. Tri Hita Karana namanya—prinsip masyarakat Hindu untuk menjaga harmonisasi antara manusia, alam, dan Sang Hyang Widhi (Tuhan). Ketika hubungan ini seimbang, maka masyarakat juga diuntungkan. Prinsip ini pun dipegang erat oleh para petani di Bali dalam menjaga sumber daya alam paling berharga—air.

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    La Brûlerie: Galeri Apresiasi Kopi dan Rempah


    Dari luar, bangunan sederhana yang didominasi warna hijau dan putih ini mungkin terlihat seperti toko pernak-pernik kuno. Dengan jendela besar yang mempertontonkan isi kafe tersebut, seringkali orang salah kaprah dan mengira bahwa tempat ini adalah toko furnitur vintage atau semacamnya. Memasuki bangunan, kamu akan disambut dengan aroma rempah-rempah dan harumnya kopi hitam. Keduanya pun memiliki cerita tersendiri yang membekas di hati Mbak Chinta Imbran, sang pemilik. 

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    Subak Abian: A Prayer in the Coffee Field


    In Origin

    Baca dalam Bahasa Indonesia What is the relationship between farming and spirituality? To Balinese, this relationship is very tangible and real. It’s called Tri Hita Karana—a Hindu principle to maintain harmony among humans, nature and Sang Hyang Widhi (God). When this relationship is balanced, the community grows. This is also the principle that is practiced by farmers in Bali, especially in protecting the most valuable natural resource of all – water. The traditional irrigation system in Bali, subak, has been developed since the 9th century. After the establishment of Subak as a world cultural heritage by UNESCO, subak is even more known and discussed by the general public. For the Balinese, the Subak irrigation system not only provides water for the farm, but is a community-based irrigation system that springs from local wisdom to support sustainability with the nature and among each the individuals. Subak is a traditional farmers’ cooperative that aims to spread responsibilities evenly among farmers in managing water irrigation and cropping patterns in the rice fields. As a farmers-based irrigation system, Subak is an independent and democratic institution. The existence of subak, which is nearly one millennium, implies that it has been successful in maintaining the balance and harmony among its members. Subak is a traditional farmers’ cooperative that aims to spread responsibilities evenly among farmers in managing water irrigation and cropping patterns in the rice fields. As a farmers-based irrigation system, Subak is an independent and democratic institution. In Bali itself, despite being a tourists’ island, […]

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    Wae Rebo: Tarik Ulur Pariwisata dan Kopi


    In Origin

    “Pada bulan Maret 2014, dua petani dari Wae Rebo berkunjung ke Klasik Beans Garut,” Pak Eko bercerita. “Pada saat itu, tantangan terbesar Waerebo adalah kebun kopi yang sudah tak terawat karena desanya sudah menjadi desa wisata. Ketua adatnya pun khawatir dengan budaya kopi Wae Rebo yang hanya sebatas menjadi etalase untuk wisatawan, bukan untuk budidaya pertanian.”

    Kedua petani dari Waerebo tersebut kemudian menginap di Garut dan belajar berbagai hal tentang kopi, dari cara berkebun, macam-macam processing, dan teknik cupping bersama tim Klasik Beans.

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